from what i've seen so far from the Resort 2010 shows, it's about lightness, soft but bright colors, (the neon of Spring 2009 is slowly fading out), and an effortless cool.
my faves: Burberry (of course), Thakoon...and some of Rag & Bone. Seems like Rag & Bone has gradually shifted from total-London-street-meets-Savile Row-tailoring to modern-biker-street-chic...sort of a dirtied-up-classy kind of look...even a bit alexander wang-esque...not sure what to make of it yet, but i do think the clothes in this collection look a lot more dishevely-cool and approachable than their former collections. i would wear these outfits on the street or to a show.
it's really interesting how composition and imagery of the lookbooks, from model poses to the photography style, makes a huge difference in creating and defining a fashion house's image. Free spirited and Young? Serious? Contemporary? Cool/Street? Girl-Next-Door? Luxurious? or just Je ne sais quoi?
With Burberry, the signature look lies against the gradient charcoal grey, almost iconic of London weather, and the composed model stances with disheveled long hair. Skinny, of course, but still approachable. The pictures simply exude a sophisticated calm, not too grown up but mature enough to take on the world...a feeling of a serious poet perhaps. And it's always inspiring to see the ways a trenchcoat style can evolve season after season.
Collection wise, I love how Christopher Bailey uses a limited color spectrum (mostly taupes, chalk whites, greys and blacks, hints of distressed chartreuse) but still stays sophisticatedly exciting. Because through this simplicity you can appreciate the ripple and folds of the laundered fabrics, the ease of the drape, the beauty of the pleats embedded in a trenchcoat, making it a trenchcoat-dress....even down to the monochrome socks and platform shoes...somehow it just, exudes....
I also share these sentiments when seeing Lanvin clothing up close....while at Bergdorf's (window shopping and market researching....clothes i could only dream of buying) I saw the Spring 2009 collection and touched the crazy gazaar and silk mousseline pieces that Alber manipulated into pleated clouds on the body. It. was. amazing.
Thakoon is a mixed breed in my book. Always on the fun spirited side, he's got great colorful prints and a quirky take on them (walking lips anyone?)...for this collection his lookbook and model stances contributed to his concept of "sun ray"....a striking shadow of the model against a white backdrop, and the model is always looking in the direction of the sun, wearing shades or closing her eyes, basking in pretty pretty clothes. It's right up my alley.
Rag & Bone...like the girl you see on a motorbike on her way to a rock show...I especially like the liquid black tunic dress, worn with indigo leggings and black ankle boots. It's very street, and I wouldn't have thought of Rag & Bone unless I was told. And now that I look at it more closely, perhaps it's more about the styling that is delivering this message, whereas the clothes themselves remain true to Rag & Bone's identity...the cropped blazer, buttondown shirt, long snap-front vest...
Enjoy, as I did, with a delicious Americano and toasted wheat bagel w/cream cheese and tomato...this is on the list of my favorite things to do...perusing through the Shows, taking in the splendid fashion eye candy for the weekend.
all images courtesy of style.com
